Here are a few more snapshots from a couple additional days exploring Rio. I will be returning to Rio for another week at the end of my trip, which is good because there is a lot more to see!
Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Glória dates to 1739 and became a favorite church of the royal family when they moved to Brazil in 1808. The blue and white Portuguese tiles are stunning and are one of Brazil's most significant assemblages of them. Something about their height on the wall (maybe about 6 feet? Taller than I am...) and their continuity makes you feel really enveloped in this space. (Can you spot Cristo in the last photo?)
Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Candelária is giant in comparison to the other churches I've seen. It was built over a long period of time, from 1775 to 1894, and was supposedly the largest and wealthiest church in imperial Brazil. After seeing it, I would believe this! Candelária has one of the wind screens at the entrance of the church like I saw in Paraty. I thought these pews were pretty incredible, too.
Switching gears to modernism...
Reidy (architect of Pedregulho from a previous post) designed Rio's Museu de Arte Moderna. The museum was founded in 1948 and was was initially housed in the Ministry of Health and Education Buidling! In 1953, Reidy drew up a plan for the museum's new building on a zone of Rio's shore that would become Burle Marx's Flamengo Park. The giant v-shaped pilotis appear to prop up the large gallery volume. Indeed, the interior was engineered to have column-free galleries. Reidy's vision for the museum had a lot to do with a visual connection to the mountains and the sea. When I visited, the museum had largely blocked off Reidy's intended views, covering the large glass wall on the waterfront side of the building -- understandably for art conservation.
Marcelo and Milton Robert (the Roberto brothers of the Parque Guinle building) designed the Associação Brasileira de Imprensa, or the Brazilian Press Association Building, in 1936. It is often considered the first large-scale modernist building in Brazil -- the barometer for which is usually Le Corbusier's visit to Rio. The exterior facade is travertine marble, making it appear more weighty than say, the Ministry of Health and Education Building. I think the way in which the massive corner is preserved creates a similar effect. The fixed brises-soleil are on the north and northeastern sides of the building: the sides most affected by the sun in the southern hemisphere.
I took a stroll on Copacabana beach which is being set up as one of the Olympics sites (beach volleyball, of course!). It's hard to convey in photos all the work that's going on because it is quite spread out, but it appears that the entire center of the boulevard is being built up, as well as designated areas of the beach.
I also passed by the Museum of Image and Sound being designed by New York-based architects Diller Scofidio + Renfro, which will celebrate Brazilian music and film. It was clearly not open yet when I walked by, but perhaps by August...? I would love to see DSR meet samba.
Had to check out Ipanema beach. The tides come in quickly here! Até logo, Rio!